Catalogue Record
Collection
Maker
Title
Tree Peony Trellis
Made in
Charlbury
Date
1981
Description
Airbrushed, quilted silk waistcoat with floral and foliage motifs with geometric patterns.
The work references other textile creations of that time such as quilts and cushions. Motifs and patterns were inspired by studies of Japanese flower paintings and folding painted screens. The garment was directly influenced by a small quilt and a series of cushions and the structure of seamed panels relates to the piecing or seaming of the quilts being made in the maker’s studio from 1979-80.
Materials and techniques
Top silk are from Antung, China. Polyester wadding, cotton muslin, machine cottons and sequins formed the quilting. Hand embellished textures achieved by hand-embroidery threads. Diluted Helizarin pigment paints, brought from Kent, sprayed. Stencil card is also added.
There were 5 stages in making the work. Stage one, airbrushed textile paints were sprayed using a Badger Hobby Airbrush, with compressor. Designs, such as peony flowers and leaves, transferred onto silk surface via hand-cut stencils. Design motif repeated using different sections of stencil, together with geometric card masks. Repeating ‘leafy’ textures used a positive leaf motif, this was hand held while the other hand guides the airbrushed sprayed colour around the positive mask. A quick, spontaneous shadow pattern created for quilting around. All of the pattern sections of the work’s silk were sprayed prior to any quilting. The silk material was stretched onto a padded table top in this stage. It took approximately 8 to 9 hours to complete this stage.
Stage two, the maker fixed textile paints using domestic iron on wrong side of fabric. Cut larger than garment pattern piece, each panel silk was layered with polyester wadding and muslin backing pin or tack.
Stage three, the work was machine quilted where free-motion stitching with a darning foot and feed dogs dropped outline of flower/ leaves. More precise geometrics use a quilting foot guide as a measure spacer, feed-dogs up on machine. Polycotton or strong cotton thread and Bernina Minimatic machine used in this stage. The maker took 12 hours to complete this stage.
Stage four, the work was embellished by hand embroidery details and sequins.
Stage five. Make up of garment and finish with spray-dyed bias strip bound edge. Lining was inserted. Approximately 2 days spent in this stage.
Dimensions
length: 113cm
width: 68cm
depth: 4cm
Object number
2018.15
Category