Brooch (J234)

Catalogue Record

Collection

Maker

Title

Brooch

Made in

London

Date

1992

Description

Wave-shaped 18ct gold brooch with lower part fusioned with platinum mesh patterning, with a clasp on the back.

Materials and techniques

18ct gold (partially oxidised) with platinum mesh fusion inlay. Very thin (0.1mm) platinum mesh was cut with scissors to a pre-determined design (in this case taken from a textile by Fortuny). The pieces were then arranged on a sheet of 18ct gold (0.75mm) and the gold heated with a flame until the two metals fused. Then followed a process of abrading the surface until the platinum was clearly evident and rolling the sheet to reduce the thickness (to 0.4mm) and to create a uniform surface plane. The surface was then textured by rolling the metal together with coarse emery cloth (obverse) and watercolour paper (reverse). Following this preparation, one side was folded at right angles and soldered (with 'medium' solder) to another angled, textured gold part forming a cruciform section. Each of the 4 flanges was then trimmed and then bent into shape.

After the hinge and clasp were soldered ('easy' solder) and the edges smoothed and finished, the piece was heated with a flame to oxidise the surface. Part of the piece was masked off with lacquer and the oxide cleaned from the back and part of the front by 'pickling' in alum solution. The laquer was then removed, the pin riveted in, and the platinum surface burnished.

Dimensions

length:  5.5cm
width:  6.5cm
weight:  23g

Object number

J234

Category

On view

  • Brooch, Jacqueline Mina, 1992, Crafts Council Collection: J234. Photo: Todd-White Art Photography.

Maker's statement

Part of a series of brooches, earings, bracelet. based on the structural (twisted cruciform) principle of ancient torques - which have an enduring fascination for me - combined with an attempt to express in precious metals my feeling for old textiles: pattern, sombre colouration and surface textures - an indistinct evocation. This brooch embodies a fine balance of all these ingredients and is in my opinion a definitive statement of this series of works.